Dirty Fashion

Roadmap signatory. C&A has a commitment on its website to improve chemical and environmental practices in cellulosic fibre production. Its corporate policy,communicated to all suppliers, is to source staple fibres from Birla and Lenzing, and filament from Enka. It is implementing the Higg FEM with all viscose suppliers, and will use ZDHC and SAC industry tools to monitor and verify the environmental impacts of its viscose suppliers. It is exploring new environmentally friendly textile fibres, and is testing traceable fibres such as EcoVero from Lenzing and EcoLiva from Birla.

C&A communicated that it sources viscose filament from Enka (one factory) and viscose fibre from Birla (seven factories) and Lenzing (seven factories). It disclosed its full factory list and addresses as follows (C&A's list included addresses not shown here which can be found on C&A's website). Viscose filament: Enka (Germany). Viscose fibre: Birla (Grasim Industries Limited (SFD), Madhyapradesh, India; Grasim Industries Limited (Grasiline Division), Karnataka, India; Birla Cellulosic (A Division of Grasim Industries Limited), Kharach, Gujarat, India; Grasim Cellulosic Division (A Unit of Grasim Industries Limited), Bharuch, India; Birla Jingwei Fibres Co. Limited, Xiangyang City, China; Thai Rayon Public Company Limited, Angthong Province, Thailand; PT Indo Bharat Rayon, Purwakarta, Indonesia). Lenzing (Austria) ; Lenzing Nanjing fibers co,.Ltd., (China); Lenzing Fibers Inc., AL 36505; Lenzing Fibers Grimsby Ltd. (United Kingdom); P.T South Pasific Viscose (Indonesia); Místecká 762 ,73921, (Czech Republic).

Roadmap signatory. M&S has a commitment to only source from MMCF producers committed to transitioning to a closed loop manufacturing system by 2023-25. It already requires its suppliers to implement the ZDHC MMCF guidelines; producers who fail to comply or change practices risk M&S re-evaluating its relationship with them. By 2020, M&S will only source MMCFs from producers whose facilities have undertaken the MMCF Brand Roundtable's self-assessment questionnaire (SAQ) and can demonstrate compliance to environmental and chemical minimum standards. Manufacturers must also agree to an in-person visit from a brand representative to verify the SAQ; M&S' has alaready audited five sites in India and China.

Disclosed list of six MMCF suppliers and 17 factories and addresses, including: Lenzing AG: Purwakarta PT. South Pacific Viscose, Lenzing Nanjing (JV with NCFC); Lenzing Austria. Aditya Birla: Nagda, Madhya Pradesh; Harihar, Karnatak; Kharach Gujarat; Vilayat, Gujurat; Indo Bharat; Thai Rayon; Indian Rayon; Century Rayon. Tangshan Sanyou Xingda Chemical Fibre Co: Tangshan Sanyou Yuanda Fibre Co Ltd; Tangshan Sanyou Xingda Chemical Fibre Co Ltd. ENKA: Enka. Xinxiang Bailu Chemical Fibre Co Ltd: Xinxiang Bailu. Kelheim Fibres: Kelheim, Germany.

Discloses factory names and addresses of viscose fibre manufacturers on an interactive map on its website. Also published a list of specific MMCFs it considers as "sustainably sourced" (these are in addition to its minimum responsible sourcing policy).

Roadmap signatory. Esprit has a target to reach 30% sustainable MMCF by July 2021. In the last financial year it reached 23% sustainable MMCF, it said, and in first month of the current financial year 38%. Esprit also has a new target to reach 100% sustainable fibres, including MMCF, by 2023. It currently considers Lenzing Ecovero, Lyocell and Tencel as more sustainable MMCF options and plans to include Circulose in the future.

Esprit shared its public supplier list including addresses, which includes viscose manufacturers, although it does not seperate these from other raw material suppliers. The list includes several factories each from Birla Group, Lenzing Group and Tangshan Sanyou Group.

Discloses tier 1-3 suppliers including viscose suppliers, setting out information on manufacturer name, facility name, address, number of workers and product type. However, the list does not clearly show which suppliers are viscose suppliers.

Roadmap signatory. ASOS's responsible viscose pledge commits it to regularly monitor and support fibre producers to move towards a closed-loop system in line with EU BAT. ASOS plans to use the results from MMCF Brands Roundtable self-assessment questionnaire (SAQ) to produce a reporting framework, and align this with other initiatives to build quantifiable targets. It requests its viscose and modal producers to complete the Higg FEM 3.0 annually.

Disclosed list of suppliers and 17 factory names but not addresses, showing the individual percentages from each factory. Birla (23%): Grasim Cellulosic Division (Birla), India; PT Indo Bharat Rayon, Indonesia; Thai Rayon Public Co. Ltd., Thailand; Birla Cellulosic, India; Birla Jingwei Fibre Company Limited, China; Jilin Chemical Fibre Co., Ltd, China. Lenzing (64%): PT. South Pacific Viscose (SPV), Indonesia; Lenzing Austria; Lenzing (Nanjing) Fibers Co.,Ltd, China. Satari (3%): Sateri (Jiangxi) Chemical Fibre Co Ltd, China; Sateri, China; Sateri (Fujian) Fiber Co., Ltd. Enka (1.5%): Enka, Germany; Formosa Chemical & Fibre Corporation, China. Other (4.6%): Tangshen Sanyou, China; Shandong Yamei, China; Yibin Hiest Fibre Ltd. Corporation, China; Enka, Germany. Unknown: 4%.

Full disclosure of suppliers and factories on website, noting that the majority of fibres come from Aditya Birla Group (Thai Rayon Company, PT Indo Bharat Rayon, Birla Jingwei Fibre company, Grasim. Birla Cellulosic, Graseline) and Lenzing (Lenzing Austria, Lenzing Nanjing, PT South Pacific). Less than 5% come from Sateri (Jiangxi, Fujian), Fulida Group, Tangsehn Sanyou, Shandong Bohi, Aoyang, Bailu Group, Nanjing, Jilin, Yibin, Shangdong Silver Hawk, Kelheim Fibers, Hubei Golden Ring, Enka and Asahi.

Roadmap signatory. Tesco requires its vendors to ensure MMCF suppliers have published action plans for meeting the requirements of the Changing Markets Roadmap by 2023-25. Its website says it has worked with different platforms to support the move towards responsible MMCF manufacturing best practices. It this year updated its MMCF sourcing policy for suppliers, although this is not publicly available. Tesco has regular calls with its core producers to discuss their interim progress.

Tesco disclosed 11 factories it sources over 80% of its MMCFs from (from Mar 2019 to Feb 2020) and their addresses (see downloadable Excel for full list with addresses): Lenzing AG (Austria); Lenzing (Nanjing) Fibres Co., Ltd; South Pacific Viscose (Lenzing); Grasim Cellulosic Division (Birla); Birla Jingwei Fibres Co. Limited; PT Indo Bharat Rayon (Birla); Grasim Industries Limited; Formosa Chemicals & Fibre Corp ; Yibin Grace Group Co Ltd ; Tangshan Sanyou group Co. LTD; Kelheim Fibres GmbH.

Discloses viscose suppliers and addresses (as also supplied to Changing Markets) representing >80% of MMCFs on its list of apparel factories supplying Tesco F&F.

Roadmap signatory. H&M has pledged to use only MMCF producers with environmental practices aligned with the Changing Markets Roadmap by 2025. Its step-wise approach to its MMCF supply chain includes implementing the ZDHC guidelines' progressive level by 2023, aspirational by 2025, and ensuring measures are in place to protect workers and local inhabitants from exposure to dangerous chemicals by 2025. H&M has visited several producers itself to check the business, social and environmental practise of these sites, it said.

Disclosed the following list of 19 suppliers with 28 seperate manufacturing sites and some addresses see downloadable Excel for full list with addresses): Birla/Grasim (Nagda Mill; Thai Rayon;Vilayat Bharuch); Domsjö Fiber AB-Birla/ Grasim, Sweden; Lenzing (Lenzing Austria, Lenzing Nanjing; PT. South Pacific); Sateri/RGE Group; Jiangsu Xiangsheng Viscose Fiber Co; Sateri Jiangxi; SATERI JIUJIANG; Jilin Chemical Fiber Co. Ltd; Xinxiang Bailu Chemical Fiber Co. Ltd - Xinxiang Chemical Fibers; JIANGSU AOYANG HEALTH INDUSTRY CO LTD, CHINA; Yibin Grace Group; SHANDONG YAMEI SCI-TECH CO. CHINA; CTHC Helon – Shandong Helon; Eastman Chemical Company acetate - Eastman Chemical Company; Asia Pacific Rayon/RGE Group – APR Rayon; Nanjing Chemical Fiber Co. – Nanjing Chemical Fibers; Formosa Chemical and Fiber Company - Formosa; Asahi-kasei; ENKA – ENKA (viscose filament); MITSUBISHI CHEMICAL CORPORATION.

Discloses that the majority of its viscose comes from Birla and Lenzing; further suppliers are Enka and Tangshan Sanyou. It does not specify factory names or locations.

Roadmap signatory. Morrisons has pledged to ensure the safe use and recovery of the chemicals in the MMCF manufacturing process by 2025. It aims to only source MMCFs from producers working to meet the requirements and timeline set out in the Roadmap. It will set targets for certified fibres use across its range, although it did not specify when these targets will be set, and is developing a "fabric library" of MMCF fabrics which meet its requirements. During the past year it has joined the MMCF Brand Roundtable.

Communicated that around 95% of its viscose is sourced from Lenzing (including sites in Indonesia, Austria and China), Aditya Birla (including sites in India and Indonesia) and Tangshan Sanyou (including sites in China), although it did not identify specific factories. Morrisons communicated that its plan to fully map its viscose supply chain was interrupted by the impact of Covid-19 on the global garment industry, but it has now restarted this exercise. It added that it has gathered further internal information about its viscose suppliers over the past year, including names of fabric mills and yarn suppliers and the visibility of certified fibres in its supply chain, but did not disclose this information.

Roadmap signatory. New Look has a pledge to source 100% traceable and sustainable viscose by 2023. Its code of ethics specified that from December 2022 onwards its only nominated viscose suppliers are Lenzing and Aditya Birla. It used 23.5% "sustainable viscose" - consisting of Lenzing Ecovero and LivaEco by Birla Cellulose - for the current Summer Spring 2020 season. Once it has mapped all its viscose suppliers, New Look aims to bi-annually monitor and verify them, using on the ground support teams and audits as well as the SAC Higg FEM and MSI.

Communicated that 23.5% of its viscose consists of Lenzing Ecovero or LivaEco by Birla Cellulose. New Look is still in the process of mapping its other viscose suppliers, it said, noting that three of its agents produce 85% of its viscose garments and it is currently working with them to establish a list of viscose suppliers.

New Look's forest policy says that the majority of its viscose is sourced from Lenzing Group and Aditya Birla, but does not give further details. It discloses tier 1 factories on its website.

Roadmap signatory. Inditex has commited to its viscose being 100% sustainable, in line with the Changing Markets Roadmap, by 2023. It shares the principles and the requirements of the roadmap with its viscose suppliers, and actively invites them to pass the corresponding EU BAT audit, done on site by third parties under Inditex request. Inditex said it aims to establish yearly reporting by its viscose suppliers through SAC Higg FEM Index and ZDHC MMCF, and is working to conduct its own audits based on unannounced visits at least annually for suppliers.

Inditex has commited to only source from the nominated suppliers from 2020 onwards. These are currently: Lenzing (all locations), Birla (all locations), Sanyou China Tangshan (Tangshan City, Hebei Province, China), Kelheim Fibers (Kelheim, Germany), Enka (Obernburg, Germany), although Inditex did not specify factory names. It communicated that it is in discussion with Kelheim (the only of its suppliers not yet commited to the Changing Markets roadmap and/or implementation of EU BAT technologies) for the assessment of their compliance with EU BAT and publication of the results.

Disclosed its viscose suppliers online in June 2020 for the first time, namely: Lenzing, Birla, Sanyou, Kelheim and Enka. The list does not include names or addresses of factories.

Roadmap signatory. Next has commited to working with its suppliers to improve their viscose and modal manufacturing processes in line with the Changing Markets' Roadmap. Its has a goal to source 100% of main raw materials (including MMCFs) through known, responsible or certified traceable sources by 2025. It achieved 19% across own brand textile products in 2019. Its strategy recognises Lyocell; Tencel Refribra Lyocell; Tencel Lyocell; Tencel Modal; Lenzing Ecovero Viscose as responsible. Its (non-public) MMCF Sourcing Policy, which it said will be uploaded to its corporate website before the end of November 2020, requires suppliers to only use fibre producers committed to become closed loop by 2025 and who have completed the Brand MMCF Roundtable's self-assessment questionnaire (SAQ).

Over 96% of the MMCF used by Next comes from Aditya Birla (38%), Lenzing AG Group (34%), Tangshan Sanyou Group Co Ltd (12%) and Sateri Group (11%), with the remaining 4% coming from six other suppliers. Next disclosed the following full factory list and addresses (bar a few sites not disclosed by suppliers) alongside the target for closed-loop production for each factory and the means by which Next had engaged with them (see Dirtyfashion microsite for full list): Aditya Birla: Grasim Industries - Nagda, India; Birla Jingwei Fibre Company Ltd, China; PT Indo Bharat Rayon (IBR) Indonesia; Birla Cellulosic - Kharach, India; Graseline Cellulosic Division - Vilayat India; Thai Rayon Company, Thailand. Lenzing AG: Lenzing Nanjing Fibres (LNF), China; Lenzing Austria; PT South Pacific Viscose, Indonesia; Lenzing Austria, Heiligenkruz, Austria; Lenzing UK. Tangshan Sanyou Group Co Ltd: Tangshan Sanyou Xingda Chemical Fiber Co Ltd, China. Sateri Group: Sateri (Jiangxi) Chemical Fiber Co Ltd, China; Jiangsu Xiangsheng Viscose Fiber Co Ltd, China; Sateri (Fujian) Fibre Co Ltd, China; Sateri (Jiujiang) Fiber Co Ltd, China. Other: Xinjiang Fulida Fiber Ltd (Xinjiang Zhongtai Chemical Co Ltd), China; Zhejiang Fulida Co Ltd (Fulida Group), China; Yibin Grace, China; Hebei Jigao Chemical Fibre Co Ltd (Jilin Chemical Fibre Co Ltd), China; Kelheim Fibers Danufil, Germany; Shandong Yamei Technology Co Ltd, China.

Discloses its tier 1 and 2 suppliers on its website, but this does not cover viscose manufacturers. Its 2019 corporate responsibility report disclosed that over half its fibres come from Lenzing, the Aditya Birla Group and the Tangshan Sanyou Group, but did not disclose factory names. Its latest (2020) sustainability report did not disclose this information.